Mallorca: More Than Just a Pretty Beach

A Cave Fit for a Dragon (and a Concert or Two)

You’d think dragons were only found in fairy tales, but Mallorca begs to differ. Hidden beneath the surface in Porto Cristo are the Coves del Drach, an underground labyrinth of twisting passages, cathedral-like chambers, and stalactites that look like something straight out of a gothic nightmare. But the real star? Lake Martel—one of the world’s largest subterranean lakes, stretching over 170 metres in length.

To add to the drama, the cave experience is elevated—quite literally—by classical musicians who drift across the water in tiny illuminated boats, performing haunting melodies that echo through the caverns. The acoustics are so mesmerising that even the most cynical traveller can’t help but get a little emotional. Meanwhile, you sit in the semi-darkness, surrounded by nature’s finest rock formations, half expecting a mythical creature to emerge from the shadows. The experience is part concert, part adventure, and entirely surreal.

A Winter of Complaints and Genius

Speaking of Chopin, did you know he spent a winter in Mallorca? Back in 1838, he and his partner, the fiery writer George Sand, set off on what they believed would be a peaceful retreat to the picturesque mountain town of Valldemossa. Chopin, already in fragile health, sought the Mediterranean climate for relief, while Sand hoped for an idyllic backdrop to inspire her writing.

What could possibly go wrong? Well, everything. The adventure began with an unfortunate twist—Chopin’s precious piano was held up in customs, forcing him to compose on a subpar instrument that was barely fit for a beginner. When it finally arrived, it was too late; the damp, cold air of Mallorca in winter was nothing like the paradise they had envisioned.

Sand, never one to keep her opinions to herself, quickly grew irritated with the locals, describing them in her book A Winter in Majorca as unfriendly, suspicious, and less than accommodating. The feeling was mutual—Mallorcans viewed the couple with curiosity and, at times, outright disapproval, particularly as they were unmarried and living together, which was quite the scandal at the time.

Despite the chaos, Chopin composed some of his most hauntingly beautiful works here, including parts of his Preludes, Op. 28. He found inspiration in the melancholic atmosphere, the echoing sound of the rain against the monastery’s ancient walls, and the rugged beauty of the Tramuntana mountains. The experience, however, was short-lived. By February, Chopin’s health had worsened, and the couple fled back to France, leaving behind a tale of artistic brilliance marred by discomfort and mutual disdain between guests and hosts.

An Island Within an Island

Mallorca isn’t content with just being an island. It has a mini-me—Cabrera, a remote archipelago of 19 small islands and islets, sitting about 10 kilometres off Mallorca’s southern coast. This little gem, now a protected national park, boasts one of the most pristine marine environments in the Mediterranean. The crystal-clear waters teem with marine life, from colourful coral reefs to loggerhead turtles and dolphins gracefully gliding through the waves. The land, meanwhile, is a rugged beauty, home to native lizards, fragrant wild thyme, and some of the most dramatic coastal cliffs in the region.

Despite its current status as an untouched natural paradise, Cabrera has a darker history. During the Napoleonic Wars, it became a makeshift prison for 9,000 captured French soldiers. With limited resources and brutal conditions, the island quickly turned into a nightmarish landscape of starvation and disease. It’s said that only a few hundred ever made it back to France, and the rest were left to perish. The ruins of the old military barracks still stand as a silent witness to this grim past, adding to Cabrera’s haunting, uninhabited feel.

Today, Cabrera is accessible by boat from Colònia de Sant Jordi, but visitor numbers are strictly controlled to preserve its delicate ecosystem. The trip rewards those who venture there with striking natural beauty, a peaceful retreat from the crowds of Mallorca, and perhaps even a chance to take a dip in the famous Cova Blava, a sea cave where the light turns the water into an otherworldly, glowing blue.

Gothic Meets Gaudí

Palma’s La Seu Cathedral is one of those buildings that makes you crane your neck and say, “Alright, that’s impressive.” Towering over the city’s waterfront, this colossal Gothic masterpiece is not just an architectural wonder—it’s a symbol of Mallorca’s layered history. Construction began in 1229, commissioned by King James I of Aragon as a grand declaration of Christian dominance over the island after its conquest from the Moors.

The cathedral took a leisurely 400 years to complete, reflecting not only the evolution of Gothic design but also the shifting priorities of Mallorcan rulers. Its golden sandstone facade gleams under the Mediterranean sun, while its interior is bathed in a kaleidoscope of colours from one of the world’s largest stained-glass rose windows, known as the “Gothic Eye.”

Just when they thought it was finished, along came the eccentric genius Antoni Gaudí in the early 20th century. He was enlisted to breathe new life into the already imposing structure, and true to form, he introduced his signature touches—removing excessive Baroque decorations, introducing modernist elements, and designing a dramatic, soaring baldachin over the altar. Though his plans were never fully realised, Gaudí’s influence added an avant-garde twist to La Seu’s medieval grandeur.

Today, La Seu remains a breathtaking blend of soaring Gothic spires, intricate stone carvings, and touches of modernist whimsy. Standing in its vast nave, you can’t help but feel the weight of centuries pressing down—a structure that has witnessed conquests, earthquakes, restorations, and reinventions, yet still stands as the beating heart of Palma.

Mountains Worthy of a Postcard

Mallorca isn’t all about sunbathing. The Serra de Tramuntana mountain range stretches dramatically along the northwest coast, forming a jagged backbone of rocky peaks, hidden valleys, and ancient trails that have been trodden for centuries. This breathtaking landscape, spanning nearly 90 kilometres, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised not only for its natural beauty but also for the centuries-old interaction between humans and the environment.

With peaks reaching over 1,400 metres, including Puig Major, Mallorca’s highest point, the Tramuntana range is an adventurer’s paradise. It boasts an intricate network of hiking trails that meander through dense pine forests, along sheer limestone cliffs, and past historic sites like terraced fields painstakingly built by Moorish settlers to prevent soil erosion. The famous Dry Stone Route, or Ruta de Pedra en Sec, is a must for serious walkers—it spans around 170 kilometres and connects picturesque villages like Deià, Fornalutx, and Sóller.

Driving through the Tramuntana is not for the faint-hearted. The hairpin bends and steep descents of the Sa Calobra road, a serpentine marvel of engineering, are legendary among motorists and cyclists alike. One of the most exhilarating routes, it winds dramatically down the mountainside in a series of dizzying switchbacks, eventually opening up to the stunning cove of Sa Calobra, a hidden paradise where towering cliffs embrace crystal-clear waters.

The region is also a haven for history lovers. Hidden among the rugged peaks are ancient monasteries, such as Lluc Sanctuary, Mallorca’s spiritual heart. Founded in the 13th century, it continues to attract pilgrims and visitors seeking tranquillity. Scattered across the mountains, you’ll find relics of old watchtowers built to protect the island from pirate invasions, as well as charming fincas (traditional farmhouses) nestled in olive groves that have stood the test of time.

No visit to the Serra de Tramuntana is complete without indulging in local delights. The area is famous for its citrus groves, particularly the fragrant oranges of Sóller, which are transformed into everything from fresh juice to artisanal marmalades. Stop by a rustic café and enjoy a coca de patata (a light, sweet bun) with a cup of thick Mallorcan hot chocolate after a long day of exploring.

Whether you’re navigating its rugged trails, marvelling at its dramatic landscapes, or simply enjoying the peaceful charm of a mountain village, the Serra de Tramuntana is a world away from the touristy beach resorts, offering a glimpse into the wild, untamed soul of Mallorca.

Faux Pearls, Real Prestige

If you’ve ever admired someone’s elegant pearl necklace, there’s a decent chance it came from Mallorca. But here’s the twist—Mallorcan pearls aren’t real. Yet, they are so meticulously crafted that even seasoned jewellers sometimes struggle to tell the difference. These exquisite imitations, made from a process that involves coating a glass nucleus with layers of iridescent essence derived from fish scales, capture the perfect sheen of natural pearls.

The town of Manacor, Mallorca’s second-largest urban centre, is the beating heart of this centuries-old craft. The art of making Mallorcan pearls dates back to the late 19th century when innovative techniques for imitating natural pearls began taking shape. Over the decades, the production process has been fine-tuned to such an extent that these pearls are often more durable and uniform in appearance than their natural counterparts.

It’s not just about aesthetics—Mallorcan pearl-making is a serious industry, with the island exporting these treasures worldwide. The internationally recognised brands Majorica and Orquidea have upheld the island’s reputation, blending tradition with modern technology to ensure the pearls maintain their flawless quality. Visitors to Manacor can witness this delicate craftsmanship in action at the local workshops, where artisans carefully assemble necklaces, earrings, and bracelets that have adorned royalty and celebrities alike.

So, while oysters may do it the natural way, Mallorcans have mastered an alternative—one that has stood the test of time and continues to captivate jewellery lovers around the globe.

A Train That Runs on Nostalgia

Ever wanted to feel like you’ve stepped into a sepia-toned photograph? Hop on the Sóller Train, an enchanting relic of Mallorca’s past. This vintage railway, inaugurated in 1912, connects Palma with the picturesque town of Sóller, offering passengers an unforgettable ride through some of the island’s most stunning landscapes. Constructed initially to facilitate the transport of oranges and lemons from Sóller to the capital, the railway has since become one of Mallorca’s most treasured attractions.

The train itself is a marvel—its polished mahogany carriages and brass fittings evoke a bygone era of travel, where journeys were savoured rather than rushed. The route winds through 27 kilometres of breathtaking countryside, passing lush citrus groves, terraced hillsides, and ancient olive orchards that seem to have been frozen in time. Along the way, passengers are treated to a series of engineering marvels, including 13 tunnels, numerous bridges, and the impressive Cinc Ponts, a five-arched viaduct that spans a deep ravine.

One of the most exhilarating moments comes as the train emerges from the final tunnel, revealing the stunning panorama of Sóller valley—a moment that never fails to elicit gasps from first-time visitors. The town itself is a gem, with its cobbled streets, charming cafés, and the magnificent Sant Bartomeu Church, whose modernist façade adds a touch of grandeur to the central square.

If you’re not quite ready to end your nostalgic journey, hop aboard the tram that connects Sóller to its coastal counterpart, Port de Sóller. This open-air tram, dating back to 1913, trundles down to the harbour, offering even more stunning views before dropping you off at the waterfront, where you can sip a freshly squeezed orange juice made from the very fruit that once necessitated the railway’s creation.

The Sóller Train is more than just a mode of transport; it’s a portal to Mallorca’s past, a living piece of history that offers a glimpse into an age when travel was an experience to be relished rather than rushed.

A Treasure Trove of Caves

If you have a thing for caves (and who doesn’t?), Mallorca is a goldmine. The island boasts over 200 caves, many of which remain unexplored by the average tourist, while others offer guided tours into breathtaking subterranean landscapes. The most famous of these is the Coves del Drach, a dramatic underground network in Porto Cristo that stretches for over 1,200 metres. Within its chambers, you’ll find the magnificent Lake Martel, one of the largest underground lakes in the world, where classical musicians perform from boats, creating an ethereal experience unlike any other.

Not far behind in allure are the Coves d’Artà, located in Capdepera, which feature towering stalagmites reaching over 20 metres in height. Legend has it that these caves once served as a refuge for pirates and smugglers, adding an air of mystery to their already otherworldly charm. The Coves de Campanet, on the other hand, offer a more intimate experience, showcasing delicate limestone formations that have taken thousands of years to sculpt into their present shapes.

Mallorca’s caves are more than just geological wonders—they are time capsules, preserving ancient secrets. Archaeologists have discovered prehistoric human remains and artefacts dating back thousands of years in some of these caverns, proving that they once provided shelter for early settlers. In more recent history, these caves have served as hideouts for outlaws, wartime refuges, and even underground concert halls.

Some caves, like the Cova de Coloms, can only be reached by swimming through crystal-clear waters, adding an adventurous edge to an already surreal journey. Others, such as the Cueva de Genova near Palma, offer shorter yet equally captivating tours through narrow passageways illuminated by soft, colourful lights. Whether you’re interested in natural beauty, historical intrigue, or a bit of both, Mallorca’s caves promise an unforgettable underground adventure that will leave you feeling like a true explorer.

Pirates, Towers, and Paranoia

Once upon a time, Mallorca had a serious pirate problem. Throughout the Middle Ages and well into the early modern period, the island was a prime target for Barbary corsairs, Ottoman raiders, and other seafaring marauders who saw Mallorca’s prosperous villages and strategic location as ripe for plundering. These pirates didn’t just steal livestock and valuables—they frequently abducted islanders, selling them into slavery in the markets of North Africa and the Ottoman Empire.

In response, Mallorcans developed a sophisticated coastal defence system. A network of watchtowers was constructed along the shoreline, forming an early warning system that allowed settlements to prepare for incoming raids. These torres de defensa (defensive towers) were strategically positioned on hilltops and cliffs, offering panoramic views of the surrounding sea. When a pirate ship was spotted, sentries would light signal fires or use smoke during the day to warn inland communities of impending danger.

One of the most famous towers still standing today is the Torre del Verger, also known as the Torre de Ses Ànimes (Tower of Souls), which looms over the rugged coastline near Banyalbufar. Its name serves as a chilling reminder of those who lost their lives or were taken captive by raiders. The ruins of other defensive structures, such as the 16th-century Torre de Cap Andritxol and the Talaia d’Albercutx, continue to offer breathtaking views over the sea while standing as silent sentinels of Mallorca’s turbulent past.

Despite these fortifications, piracy remained a constant threat. Some coastal villages were so frequently attacked that their populations were forced to move further inland, leaving behind abandoned fishing hamlets. Even Palma, the island’s capital, was not immune to raids—historical records detail moments when its harbour was under siege by enemy fleets.

Today, these ancient stone sentinels still stand, weathered by centuries of salty air and storms, offering visitors not just incredible vistas but also a glimpse into a time when living in Mallorca meant keeping a wary eye on the horizon, always alert for the ominous sight of black sails on the horizon.

Mallorcan Tumbet: The Island on a Plate

If Mallorca had to be summed up in a dish, it would be tumbet. This hearty, rustic meal is a love letter to Mediterranean vegetables, deeply rooted in the island’s culinary traditions. The dish is thought to have originated centuries ago as a way for farmers to make the most of the bountiful produce grown under the island’s abundant sunshine. With no meat or fish in the original recipe, it was traditionally served as a filling, satisfying meal for labourers working the land. Today, it remains a staple of Mallorcan cuisine, often found in local homes and traditional restaurants.

Tumbet consists of layers of perfectly fried vegetables, each carefully prepared to bring out its unique flavour. Thinly sliced aubergines, golden potatoes, and sweet red peppers are individually fried in generous amounts of olive oil, imparting a rich, almost caramelised taste. These layers are then assembled in a baking dish and drenched in a robust homemade tomato sauce, slow-cooked with garlic, olive oil, and a hint of sugar to balance the acidity of the tomatoes.

What makes tumbet truly special is its versatility. Some variations include courgettes or onions, while others add a layer of fresh eggs cracked on top before baking. While traditionally served as a vegetarian dish, many locals pair it with grilled fish, lamb, or even a fried egg on top for added richness. The beauty of tumbet lies in its simplicity—pure, wholesome ingredients allowed to shine through careful preparation.

More than just a meal, tumbet represents the essence of Mallorca itself: sun-drenched, uncomplicated, and bursting with flavour. Eating it feels like a warm embrace from the island, transporting you straight to a rustic countryside kitchen where the scent of roasted peppers and simmering tomatoes fills the air. Whether enjoyed as a main course or a side dish, tumbet is a must-try for anyone wanting to savour the authentic taste of Mallorca.